What is grain leather? And why do we use it?

There are few important issues for us artisans as choosing the cut. Or the leather we will be using. That's why we decided to use Full Grain Leather for our wallets and leather goods.

So what is Full Grain Leather?

Full Grain Leather is a reference to the strongest and most durable part of an animal's skin. This is the part of the skin that sits right under the hair and has not been sanded, polished or extinguished (unlike the grain corrected), which means it exhibits more natural skin characteristics.

Since the grain surface remains intact before the surface coating is applied, the leather has greater fiber strength and durability, and will develop a patina over time. Grain leather often has an aniline finish, which causes stains or leather. And thus, the subtle finish allows the skin to breathe. Unlike other leathers that are sanded. As a result, a thicker finishing layer is given

For this reason, we decided to choose grain leather. Grain leather is considered to be the highest quality leather in the world

So what does whole grain leather look like?

According to many people and experts, grain leather has all its natural discoloration and blemishes, which add character to the material. This is due to the fact that it is the strongest and most outer part of the skin. As the skin ages, a patina forms. This change occurs most rapidly in areas that have not been treated. It is also a change considered highly desirable

What does a full grain leather upper mean?

Full grain leather uppers are leather uppers made of full grain leather. When we say "leather uppers" we mean the part of the shoe or shoe above the sole which is made of leather.

Where does whole grain leather come from?

Full grain leather comes from the layer of skin just below the hairline and is made of the outer layer of leather, which means it is more durable as the fiber structure is much more closely woven together.

Full grain leather can come from goats, pigs, sheep, and even more exotic animals such as alligators, ostriches, and kangaroos. However, cowhide is the most commonly used leather for leather production. Each product on our website that is listed as full grain leather is exclusively made from cow hides. You can read more about where we source our skins from here.

How is whole grain leather made?

Full grain leather is made in 3 main stages: preparation, tanning and skinning. In turn, the 4th step can also be added when the skin receives a coating or surface finish.

PREPARATION:

First of all, the skin is prepared, which may include some of the individual steps:

The leather is treated in such a way as to keep it and temporarily indelible. It is then soaked to cleanse and rehydrate.
The next stage is the liming operation, i.e. removing proteins and natural fats and fats by soaking them in an alkaline solution.

The skin hair is then removed, followed by the removal of subcutaneous material and fat. The leather is divided into horizontal layers, which gives us different layers, from the whole grain (top layer) to the corium layer, which is made of "real" leather and suede.

By further liming and renewing, the proteins are further removed, followed by the removal of these chemicals. The next stage that the skin goes through is a sub-process called slicking, which is the physical removal of fat from the skin.

In this process, the skin is bleached and pickled (lowering the pH level to the acidic area), thus helping some tannins to penetrate it; it can then be pickled to raise the pH level again to aid the penetration of some further tanning agents.

TANNING:

The next stage is leather tanning. It is the process of transforming leather into a stable material that will dry to a flexible form and will not rot. There are many techniques for tanning leather. Of which, depending on the end use of the leather, Chronium is the most commonly used tanning material.

The hides are placed in the drum with the tanning liquor to be soaked, while the drums slowly rotate. After even penetration is achieved, the pH level slowly rises - this sub-process is called alkalinization. Basification fixes the tannin on the skin.

So where to buy whole grain leather?

The places where we can buy leather are not only tanneries and leather shops all over the world. In addition, we can buy leather on the Internet. We can boldly distinguish the eight largest leather producers in the world: USA, Argentina, South Korea, India, Russia, Italy, Brazil and China.

What is frog skin?

When talking about pebble skin, we are talking about skin that has a pebble texture embossed on the surface. The addition of this texture is for cosmetic reasons and serves to hide natural blemishes on the skin's surface.

What is burnt leather?

Polishing is a finishing technique whereby the leather is smoothed by rubbing and pressure, thus giving a darker and more aged color. In addition, the skin is often polished at the edges with a metal tool such as a spinning disc.

What is oiling full grain leather?

In this case, the skin was coated with oils such as crude oil (non-emulsified) or a combination of crude oil mixed with emulsified oils and a penetration enhancer. Greasing helps to moisturize the skin, allowing it to bend and lubricate. Hence, it makes the leather waterproof. This is a process often associated with full grain aniline leathers.

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